Clouds begin to appear,
ever so slightly revealing themselves just beyond the next ridge line. In what
was once an ocean blue sky stretching out to every horizon, clouds like puffs
of cotton the color of charcoal are seemingly stacking atop each other with
each passing minute. It is as if they have climbed up the backside of this
mountain, now anticipating our meeting at the upcoming high mountain pass. The
surrounding peaks are slowly becoming swallowed like boulders in a swollen
desert stream, inundated by the rushing flood of dark churning clouds. As look
up, my head unconsciously turns with my wandering, widening eyes and I realize
this flood, this storm, has now encompassed me as well. In the fine line that
exists between paralyzing fear and overwhelming awe, I find myself . . .
exposed.
It is a place I have found myself many
times before, and oddly enough it is a place that I long to find myself again
and again. As someone who has spent the last 10 years working as a river guide,
I have found that there are many parallels between the river and the trail, but
none more special to me than those moments of exposure. Whether it be in the
midst of chaotic whitewater or the humbling power of a storm, there is a
certain sacredness in realizing you are in the midst of uncontrollable
grandeur. Some of the most impressive, unnerving, and awe inspiring storms I
have ever experienced happened while thru hiking the Colorado Trail with my
wife last summer. Lighting bolts darted back and forth across the sky. Hail
pelted us along treeless ridges, one day in particular assaulting us on four
separate occasions. Rain fell in sheets, completely soaking us through multiple
times. For the first time I can remember, thunder pounded so close and with
such force that I felt it inside me, like my heart was the epicenter of this
deep, echoing boom that was making its way to my fingertips and toes.
Immediately
following some particularly impressive displays, Laura and I would eerily turn
towards each other, eyebrows raised and eyes wide and round as if looking
through a magnifying glass. We would not say a word.
While in the Weminuche Wilderness, making
our way across an open, high stretch of trail, we found ourselves once again in
the midst of the madness. It was just before making the steep drop into the Elk
Creek drainage. Thunder bounced off towering rock walls, and the wind made the
rain and hail fall horizontally. It was intense. Lightning began flashing all
around us, to the point that it became impossible to tell which direction the
storm was coming from or where it was going. We kept going back and forth as to
what our next step should be. Do we hunker down and wait it out, or make a push
for the Elk Creek descent and find some cover? No matter what we decided, what
we did know is that there would be no spectating here. This would be felt.
Finally there was a lull, just enough of a
break to make a dash down into Elk Creek. The worst of the storm had passed,
and as we made our way down the steep, winding switchbacks, we began to realize
the rain had left us a gift in its wake. The sheer, vertical rock walls that
line the sides of the drainage were now the birthplace of waterfalls. Every few
steps seemed to reveal another one, thin streaks of water tumbling down barren
cliffs. The following few miles became some of the most memorable of the entire
hike.
There is a deep truth in these moments of
chaos and terror, in the awe and humility. So often life can be insulated and
predictable. Whether physically, mentally, or emotionally, it is always easier
to hold back. In the “real world,” we do not have to put ourselves out there.
But in holding back, we miss out on a chance to learn a little more about
ourselves. A large part of my passion for the rivers and wild places of this
world is rooted in the fact that nature exposes me. In the torrent of storms
and raging rapids, there is no place to hide. There is the element of risk. Not
the vain risk that is taken solely for the sought after reward, but the humble
risk of seeing what we are made of for our own sake. The humble risk of being
ok with not having complete control. It is the humble, seemingly nonsensical
risk of putting “life” on hold to walk 500 miles through the mountains. It is
the risk of finding yourself in that fine line between paralyzing fear and
overwhelming awe and realizing . . . this is sacred.
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